Multifunctional active ingredient-based delivery systems for skincare formulations: A review

Kouassi, MC; Grisel, M; Gore, E

Abstract

Nowadays, there is a growing demand for effective cosmetic skincare products that can address the specific skin problems of consumers. Delivery systems play an important role in the effective action of cosmetic skincare formulations. Delivery systems are attractive and smart technologies used as carriers for cosmetic ingredients, which are sensitive to various physical factors such as light, oxygen, pH and temperature. Delivery systems offer several advantages: transport and protection of sensitive active compounds, controlled and targeted release of active ingredients. Several delivery systems, varying in chemical composition, with adaptable physicochemical characteristics (size, morphology, zeta potential, structure) as well as great advantages as carriers, are developed and described in the literature. This article reviews the current cosmetic active ingredients used in skincare products due to their beneficial properties such as antioxidant, anti-aging, photo-protective, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, etc.). In addition, the main advantages of several classes of delivery systems (emulsions, lipid nanoparticles, polymeric particles) are described, as well as some recent approaches used to ensure their efficacy (long-term stability, controlled release of the active, skin penetration/permeation) are reviewed. Finally, new trends to be considered for the development of delivery systems and cosmetic formulations are discussed.

Keywords: Deliverysystems; Skincareformulations; Cosmeticactives; Skindamage

Related products/services

Liposomes for Cosmetics

Liposomes, spherical vesicles composed of lipid bilayers, have emerged as a revolutionary tool in the field of cosmetics, particularly for multifunctional active ingredient delivery systems. Their unique structure allows for the encapsulation of both hydrophilic and lipophilic substances, making them versatile carriers for a variety of cosmetic ingredients. This capability enhances the stability and efficacy of active compounds, which are often prone to degradation or limited penetration when applied directly to the skin. The utilization of liposomes in cosmetics offers numerous benefits. Firstly, they can improve the bioavailability of active ingredients, ensuring that these compounds are delivered to deeper skin layers. This targeted delivery not only enhances the effectiveness of the cosmetic product but also minimizes potential side effects. Secondly, liposomes can provide a controlled release of active ingredients, maintaining their action over an extended period and reducing the need for frequent reapplication. Moreover, liposomes can encapsulate a wide range of substances, including vitamins, antioxidants, peptides, and plant extracts, each with distinct skin benefits. For instance, liposomal encapsulation of vitamins like C and E can protect these sensitive compounds from oxidation, preserving their potency. Additionally, the use of natural phospholipids in liposome formulation is biocompatible and enhances skin hydration, leading to improved skin texture and appearance.